What Are Polki Diamonds? The Story Behind India’s Oldest Form of Diamond Jewelry

Today, Polki jewelry still carries that quiet truth. It isn’t about perfection; it’s about presence the kind of jewelry that holds a story, not just a shine.

What Is a Polki Diamond?

A Polki diamond is a natural, uncut diamond. It isn’t shaped with modern tools or machines. Instead, it’s lightly cleaned and set just the way it forms in nature.

Unlike modern brilliant cuts that reflect sharp, bright light, Polki stones have a gentle inner glow. The surface is slightly uneven, the light is softer, and every piece looks a little different. That’s what makes each Polki jewel unique.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) describes Polki as one of the oldest forms of diamond jewelry still made by hand today proof that true beauty never needed alteration. (Source: GIA)

How It All Began

Polki jewelry has its roots in ancient India, particularly during the Mughal era. Kings and queens wore Polki jewels not only as ornaments but as expressions of power and purity.

The art of making Polki jewelry is known as Jadau, a process passed down through generations of artisans. Even today, workshops in Jaipur, Bikaner, and Hyderabad follow the same steps:

• Hand-engraving gold bases
• Setting each diamond using lac, a natural resin
• Lining the back with gold foil to reflect light

Each piece takes hours or even days to complete. The Natural Diamond Council refers to this heritage as “a living craft,” a connection between today’s jewelry and centuries-old artistry. (Source: Natural Diamond Council)

Different Kinds of Polki

Not all Polki diamonds are the same. Within workshops and design studios, jewelers often distinguish Polki by its spread, thickness, and clarity, though there are no formal gemological grades defined for it.

The Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) notes that traditional Polki jewelry is assessed by its visual character rather than by the modern 4C system. Jewelers look for how evenly the stone spreads, how clear it appears, and how well it reflects light through its natural form.

The GIA also recognizes that Polki pieces vary widely because each stone is left uncut and unshaped no two diamonds look identical. This natural irregularity is part of their beauty and individuality.

So when jewelers describe Polki stones whether thick, flat, or delicately thin they’re referring to natural variations shaped by the diamond itself, not by machines.

These subtleties help select stones for bridal necklaces, earrings, or minimal everyday pieces, each with its own character. (Source: GIA)

Polki, Kundan, and Jadau — Clearing the Confusion

People often confuse these three terms, and for good reason; they're closely related.

Here's the simplest way to remember:

When you hear “Polki Jadau Necklace,” it refers to real, uncut diamonds set by hand using the Jadau technique.

The Natural Diamond Council notes that this combination of material and method keeps Indian jewelry distinctive worldwide.

How to Know If Your Polki Is Real

• Natural outline: No two stones look the same.
• Soft reflection: A gentle glow, rather than a sharp glitter.
• Foil backing: Thin gold/silver foil behind each stone to enhance light.
• Visible inclusions: Small internal marks that signal natural origin.
• Paperwork: Ask for certification/inspection from GIA, IGI, or GSI.

The GJEPC notes that labs such as GSI now offer specialized testing for Polki jewelry to ensure transparency for buyers. (Source: GJEPC – GSI Polki Testing)

Case study: A GIA Gem News Report highlighted instances where some Polki-cut stones were glass-filled or synthetic. Independent lab reports help you avoid such issues. (Source: GIA Gem News Report)

How Polki Fits Into Today’s Jewelry

Polki jewelry has evolved with time. What once adorned royal portraits now complements both bridal and modern wardrobes.

Bridal Jewelry

Traditional sets, featuring polki chokers, long hair, and earrings, remain timeless choices for Indian weddings. They pair beautifully with meenakari detailing and gemstones.

Modern Everyday Wear

Designers today combine polki with smaller diamonds or colored stones to create lighter, more wearable pieces, such as pendants, rings, and studs, that bring tradition into daily life.

As the Natural Diamond Council points out, Polki jewelry today bridges heritage and modern expression. It's not just for grand occasions; it's a way to keep culture close to you.

Caring for Polki Jewelry

Polki jewelry is handcrafted with foil, enamel, and natural resin materials that need gentle handling.

• Keep it away from perfumes, lotions, and water.
• Wipe gently with a dry, soft cloth after wearing.
• Do not use chemical or ultrasonic cleaners.
• Store each piece separately in a soft pouch.
• Have your settings checked by a jeweler at least once a year.

These simple steps protect both the gold and the diamonds for decades to come.

Buying Polki Jewelry for the First Time

When you decide to buy Polki, you’re investing in heritage, not just a gemstone. Keep in mind:

• Choose trusted jewelers. Always ask about sourcing and authenticity.
  
• Request documentation. A small lab report or receipt that mentions "Polki" adds assurance.
  
• Confirm the stones are natural. Avoid treated or filled versions.
  
• Expect variation. Every Polki stone is naturally unique.
• Buy it for meaning. Polki jewelry is more emotional than financial; it carries legacy value. (Source: Wikipedia – Diamonds as Investment)

Final Thoughts

Polki jewelry connects the present to the past a reminder that beauty doesn’t always need to be shaped or polished.

Every Polki piece tells a quiet story of its origin, the maker, and the person who will wear it next.

At KAMA Jewelry, we collaborate with artisans who continue to employ traditional methods of hand-setting Polki stones.

FAQ

1. What exactly is a Polki diamond?
   It’s a natural, uncut diamond used in jewelry just as it forms in nature.
2. Is Polki the same as Kundan?
   No. Polki uses real diamonds; Kundan uses colored glass or imitation stones.
3. Can Polki jewelry be worn daily?
   Yes—if it’s made securely and handled with care. Avoid moisture and harsh cleaning.
4. Does Polki hold resale value?
   It carries strong emotional and cultural value rather than standardized resale value.
5. How can I confirm authenticity?
   Look for irregular shapes and foil backing, and request verification from GIA or GSI.